Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
