‘Every Chef Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.

Tammy Rodriguez
Tammy Rodriguez

Maya Chen is a seasoned journalist and cultural analyst with over a decade of experience covering global affairs and cross-cultural dynamics.